Guide To Oboe Reed Knife

For the reed to take the shape of the tube correctly, it is always necessary to wait at least two days between the assembly and the scratching of a reed. Do not hesitate to mount several reeds at once and then scratch them gradually according to your needs. During the scratching you will be tapering the outer edges of the reed.

The reed is delivered in one piece, so it should be split at first. For this, use a Oboe Reed Knife or metal plate whose edges have been sharpened with the file. Any cutting tool can do the trick, just do not damage the reed and get the sharpest cut of the fibers.

Once the reed is split, let it soak for a few moments. The reed will start to curl and soften, scratching will be easier. You can distinguish two parts to scratch on a reed (the oboe is: two changes scratching and one draw). The leading edge is the 2 mm of the end and the body of the reed roughly the rest.

It is important when working the body of the reed to use a domed wooden plate. The pressure you exert tends to flatten and thus to promote the crack of the reed. The curved plate avoids this trauma. Conversely, when refining the leading edge, use a flat metal plate. You will not tear off the corners.

An important point is the sharpening of the knife. It should work with a sharp enough knife to properly cut the fibers but not too much so as not to remove too much wood at each pass. If your Oboe Reed Knife really does not cut, you have to sharpen it. In order to keep its original shape, avoid taking it to the grandmother’s grinder. Better to contact a specialist.

If your knife is not completely flat and you want to give it a new lease of life, a leather is needed. In this case, after sharpening it is advisable to moderate the heat of the blade, for example by cutting a sheet of paper with.

At first, start working the upper part of your reed with the knife. Go slowly but do not hesitate to remove the wood all the same. Always work both edges of the reed and both sides. A reed should be symmetrical a priori with a mm2 axis characteristic of orthorhombic networks.

The idea here is to get on the leading edge a reed as thin as possible and also thin corners that ensure the connection with the scratching of the body of the reed.

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